Victoria Street Market, Durban, South Africa
If you ever find yourself in Durban, the largest city in KwaZulu-Natal (and third largest in the country), you are in for a treat. Over 170 stalls, including Indian, Chinese and Taiwanese food, can be found at “the Vic”, or Victoria Street Market, located in a building that looks like a Maharajah’s palace, complete with purple minarets. There’s a fish market downstairs and as with many open markets the prices go down right before closing. Indian and African produce are available, along with handcrafts and prepared food. Durban has a huge Indian population — the largest outside of Asia — its size mirrored in the Vic’s bounty of barrels, overflowing with fragrant Indian spices. Men in their kurtas and women in their saris sell their wares in this extensive bazaar.
The Indians first came to South Africa in the 1600’s, brought over by Dutch settlers. A second wave came in the 19th century to work on British sugarcane plantations. The open-air markets first opened in the 1870s and moved to the current location around 1910. Where else in the world can you find expertly-mixed spices and sauces going by the names of Honeymoon BBQ and Mother-in-Law Exterminator? Everything you may want in the name of spice is here, from the typical panch phoran to premade mixes for lamb rogan josh. (That guy in the picture is Deena Moodley, a.k.a. “Mr. Curry”, who operates R.A. Moodley, one of the spice stalls. Other recommendations include Reddysons and Joe Haripersad’s Joe’s Corner.) And in case you’re wondering about last year’s Sudan Red scare, here’s what the spicemakers have to say about it.
In October 2005, the city of Durban launched a development plan to be completed in time for FIFA 2010. You can either wait until then, or go now before the next crowd of World Cup fans and spectators converge here.
Victoria Street Market
151 Victoria Street corner Queen Street
Durban
27-031-306-4021
Hours: 6:00 am to 5:00 pm
10:00 am to 3:00 pm
(Some sources say the markets are open ’til 6 daily, but call to make sure.)
Click for more:
Lots of info at South Africa-Travel.net.
A review of “Urban Durban” from Reema Sisodia
Here’s Brigadoon Tours to get you started
A preview from Durban-Direct
Chef Rocco et al Going Wild in South Africa back in 2004
Some history for you.
A primer from Frommer’s.
And here’s a handy guide to take with you when you visit the Vic.
If you do decide to go, you may want to take one (or two) of these books with you:
Need some music to listen to while perusing these tour books? Try
Durban Deep by Elton John :D
Photo courtesy of Klaus G. Hinkelmann and www.southafrica-travel.net.
Tags: durban, indian-cuisine, indian-spices, south-africa, Travel, victoria-street-marketRelated Stories
POSTED IN: Indian, Travel, Where To Buy Asian Food
2 opinions for Victoria Street Market, Durban, South Africa
Helen
Sep 22, 2006 at 2:10 pm
New Zealand Chinese are an active bunch.
Billigflug USA
Jun 25, 2008 at 7:09 am
The Market Street is one of my favourite places in Durban. But I like the beach better. Can´t wait to come back to Durban and surf the waves!
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